JOHANNEMANN & SONSROOFING · EXTERIORS · CONSTRUCTION
(201) 446-5941 Free Estimate
Gutters · Ho-Ho-Kus, NJ 07423

Gutter replacement & repair in Ho-Ho-Kus, NJ

Steep colonials, capes and Tudors, old trees over nearly every roof, and a brook through the middle of the borough. We form seamless aluminum gutters on site, hang half-round copper where an older house suits it, and settle where each downspout empties before the first run goes up.

The roofs

Steep slopes, broken eaves, short runs.

Nearly every house in Ho-Ho-Kus is a single-family colonial, Cape Cod or Tudor shedding its rain off steep gables and cross-gables, and to a gutter that shape matters more than the size of the house. A steep slope throws water outward, and in a hard downpour it can clear the front lip of a gutter hung too low or too far back. So the height of each run, and the drip edge above it, are set at the roof.

Cross-gables also chop the eave into short pieces at different heights, each needing its own outlet, and an upper roof often has nowhere to drain but onto a lower one. A downspout emptying onto shingles wears a track down the slope and floods one corner of the gutter below, so we pipe that water down in a leader instead.

How a run is sized from the roof area, the pitch and the outlets is on our gutters page. This one is about the houses and the ground in 07423.

By house type

What each kind of house asks of its gutters.

The borough’s house types repeat, and so do their gutter problems. These are starting points; the measurements on the day decide.

HouseWhat the gutter has to cope with, and what usually suits it
Center-hall colonialLong, straight eaves front and back, each carrying a whole slope. Seamless aluminum K-style, pitched to an outlet at both ends of the longer runs and finished to match the trim.
Dutch ColonialThe gambrel’s steep lower slope, often with a long shed dormer above it, empties fast onto one long eave. A larger profile than the builder’s default, an extra downspout, and hangers set close together.
Cape CodLow eaves, dormers draining onto the main roof, and rooms directly above the eave. Runs kept clean and pitched so they drain before they freeze, with hangers driven through the fascia into the rafter ends.
TudorCross-gables ending at several heights, over walls of brick or stucco that suffer when a gutter spills. Upper roofs piped into the gutters below, outlets sized up, and every inside corner checked.
Older stone and frame housesThe oldest stand along Franklin Turnpike, and a K-style profile looks out of place on them. Half-round, in copper on brackets where the house warrants it; see what copper gutters cost and how long they last.
The trees

Two seasons of debris, and the limbs above them.

Mature trees stand over most residential streets in the borough, and they decide most of the work a gutter does here.

Leaves in the fall

Big leaves fill an open run within a few weeks, worst at inside corners and below valleys. Clear the gutters once the trees are bare, not halfway through the drop.

Seeds and flowers in spring

Finer debris follows in spring, small enough to slip through a coarse screen and dense enough to mat in the bottom of the trough. It is the season that shows whether a guard is any good.

Limbs over the roof

A branch resting on a gutter, or dropping onto one, bends the hangers and pulls the run out of pitch, so it holds water. Overhanging limbs are best cut back by a tree service first.

Runs that never dry

In deep shade the silt left in a gutter stays wet, and seedlings and moss take root in it. A run that has grown a garden has usually lost its pitch as well, and we check both.

Whether a guard earns its cost depends on what falls on your roof: micro-mesh handles the fine spring debris best, and under the densest cover two cleanings a year can still be the better answer, and we do that seasonal cleaning too. More in gutter guards under a heavy canopy.

The ground

Every downspout needs somewhere to go.

Most of Ho-Ho-Kus is gently rolling, so most lots fall away somewhere, and the job is choosing which way each downspout goes: away from the foundation, from a path where the water would freeze, and from the house next door, carried in an extension or buried pipe to where it can spread out and soak in.

Ground near the Ho-Ho-Kus Brook is a different case. The brook runs through the downtown and under the Warren Avenue Bridge, and its banks are the borough’s flood-prone corridor. There, a pipe buried with nowhere to drain fills and backs up, and a dry well only works if the soil around it can still take water. A leader carried across the lawn to where the grade drops, or onto a surface that sheds water away from the house, is often the more honest fix.

Either way, the estimate lists where every downspout ends; if a wet basement is why you called, that list matters more than the gutter. More under where the water goes next.

On the estimate visit

Four things we check before we quote.

Gutters fail at their fixings and outlets far more often than along the run.

1

The roof above each run

The slopes, valleys and dormers draining to each eave, so the profile and outlets match the water, not the length of the wall.

2

Fascia and hangers

Gutters hang on the fascia board. Where it is soft it is replaced first, and the new hangers are screwed in at close spacing.

3

Outlets and leaders

Outlets counted against the water each run carries, and any upper downspout that lands on a lower roof rerouted.

4

The discharge

Where each leader empties, written down, with extensions or buried pipe where the ground calls for them.

Some gutters only need repair: a run re-pitched, a hanger reset, a corner or end cap resealed, a leader put back on its elbow. When that is the right answer, that is what we price.

Also in Ho-Ho-Kus

Below the gutter, and above it.

Gutters in Ridgewood, next door → · Ice at the eaves →

Questions
Do you replace gutters in Ho-Ho-Kus?

Yes, anywhere in 07423. We take down the old runs, repair any soft fascia, and form new seamless aluminum gutters on site to the length of each eave, so the only joints are at corners and outlets. Half-round copper is available for the older houses. The estimate is free and lists the gutter size, the hangers and where every downspout empties.

My house is near the Ho-Ho-Kus Brook. Where should the downspouts go?

Away from the foundation and onto ground that can take the water. Along the brook the ground can be wet before the rain starts, so a buried pipe or a dry well with nowhere to drain tends to fill and back up. Carrying the leader across the lawn to where the grade falls, or onto a hard surface that sheds it away from the house, usually works better. We look at the lot before suggesting either.

Why do my gutters overflow even when they are clean?

On a steep roof it is usually one of three things. The gutter hangs too low, so fast water shoots over its front edge. An outlet is too small, or too far from the spot where a valley empties. Or an upper roof is dumping its water into one corner of the gutter below. Each is fixed by moving hangers or outlets, not by replacing gutters that are otherwise sound.

Is copper worth it on an older Ho-Ho-Kus house?

On a stone or frame house from the borough’s early years, or an older house whose roof already carries copper flashing, half-round copper looks right and will outlast two or three sets of aluminum. On most colonials and capes, seamless aluminum finished to match the trim is the sensible choice. What copper costs installed is in our article on copper gutters.

Do new gutters need a permit in Ho-Ho-Kus?

No. Replacing gutters and downspouts on a detached house is classed as ordinary maintenance under New Jersey’s Uniform Construction Code, so there is nothing to file with the borough. If the boards behind the gutter turn out to need more than a new fascia, we show you what we found before any further work.

Free written estimate

Gutters measured to the roof, and to the ground below it.

Run sizes, outlets, any guard and every downspout’s destination, written on the estimate before anything is ordered.

Or call — an active leak should not wait on email.
Call (201) 446-5941 Free estimate