JOHANNEMANN & SONSROOFING · EXTERIORS · CONSTRUCTION
(201) 446-5941 Free Estimate
Gutters · Edgewater, NJ 07020

Gutter installation, replacement & repair in Edgewater, NJ

On the hillside streets under the Palisades, a gutter has to take the water off the roof and then put it somewhere safe on a small, steep lot. On the waterfront, it has to hold on in wind straight off the Hudson and last in salt-influenced air. We install and repair seamless aluminum and copper gutters sized and hung for whichever of those your house is facing.

Plan the whole gutter system

New gutters start with the roof and end at the discharge point.

Whether you are replacing failing gutters or installing a new system, the gutter, its supports and the downspouts need to work together. We install seamless aluminum and copper gutters and assess whether an existing problem calls for a repair or replacement.

Check the existing condition

Leaks, loose hangers, lost pitch and damaged downspouts can have different fixes. The fascia behind the gutter also needs sound support before a repaired or replacement run goes back up.

Plan collection and drainage together

Gutter size and outlet locations depend on the roof feeding each run. The downspout route matters too, especially on a narrow hillside lot where discharge must avoid the house and neighboring property.

Choose materials for the location

Compare seamless aluminum with copper, taking existing flashing and exposure into account. The downspout plan belongs on the written estimate, alongside the proposed gutter work.

Hillside or waterfront

The same gutter, two very different jobs.

Hillside houses under the cliffWaterfront buildings and townhouses
What it facesHeavy rain off a steep roof, on a lot where water is already running down from aboveRain driven sideways by the wind, and long runs down tall elevations
LeavesA heavier tree canopy; check the actual debris load when considering guardsCheck nearby trees and the roofline before deciding whether guards are useful
Where the water goesDownhill — at your own foundation or the house below, unless it is piped awayInto leaders and drain lines designed with the building
What wears it outLeaves, ice lingering in the shade of the cliff, and soft fascia behind the gutterWind working the hangers loose, and salt-influenced air on fasteners and joints
What we usually fitSeamless aluminum, oversized on a steep roof, with guards where the trees call for themHeavier-gauge seamless aluminum or copper on hidden hangers set close together
Downspouts

On a slope, every downspout is aimed at someone.

Water leaving a downspout on a hillside lot ends up somewhere downhill: against your own foundation, down your driveway, or at the house below. On the narrow lots under the Palisades, with houses standing close together, that is often a neighbor’s wall.

So the downspouts are planned with the gutter, not after it — how many, where they come down, and where each one discharges. Piped underground to a point downslope where the water can drain safely, tied into an existing drain line if the house has one that still works, or carried well clear of the house on the surface where the ground allows. The plan is written on the estimate.

Water running down the lot from higher up is a different problem, and no gutter can catch it. Where it is reaching the house, we will point it out and tell you plainly what it needs.

Near the water

What changes on an exposed elevation.

Heavier metal

Seamless aluminum comes in more than one thickness. On elevations facing the river we specify the heavier 0.032-inch stock rather than the thinner gauge common on houses; it holds its shape against wind and ladders and stays straight on a long run.

Hangers that stay put

Hidden hangers screwed through the fascia into solid wood behind it, set closer together than an inland house needs. Spikes driven through the gutter face work loose in wind and ice, and a gutter pulling away from the fascia pours water straight down the wall.

Metals kept apart

Copper and aluminum corrode each other where they touch or where water runs from one onto the other, and salt-influenced air speeds it up. Copper gutters get copper hangers, fasteners and downspouts; aluminum gutters are kept out of the runoff from copper flashing above them.

Ice in the shade of the cliff

Houses tucked under the Palisades lose the afternoon sun early in winter, so ice can sit in the gutters longer than elsewhere. Correct pitch to the outlets, outlets big enough to drain, and membrane at the eaves all help — and heavy icing on a warm-attic house points at the attic, which we will tell you.

Repair or replace

Not every leaking gutter needs replacing.

Worth repairing

  • A hanger that has pulled loose, with sound fascia behind it
  • One leaking end cap, corner or outlet
  • A run that has lost its pitch and holds water
  • A downspout crushed, split or disconnected at the elbow

Time to replace

  • Sectional gutters leaking at joint after joint
  • Galvanized steel rusting through along the bottom
  • Gutters too small for the roof they are draining
  • Fascia rotted behind them that has to come off anyway

Either way, rotted fascia is replaced before any gutter goes back up: a new gutter hung on soft wood will not stay there. On the larger River Road buildings, the drains and scuppers are roof work — see flat roofs in Edgewater.

Still seeing overflow after cleaning? Our gutter overflow guide explains what you can safely record and what to ask at an assessment before choosing a repair, larger gutters or guards.

Guards still need inspection and care, and debris can collect on top of them. Follow the instructions for the product installed on your home rather than assuming a fixed number of years between cleanings.

Also in Edgewater

From the ridge down to the ground.

Gutters in detail → · Siding in Edgewater → · Copper gutters and what they last →

Questions
Should I replace my gutters in seamless aluminum or copper?

Seamless aluminum suits almost every house in Edgewater and is the usual choice on the hillside streets. Copper costs considerably more, lasts far longer and weathers to brown and then green; it suits a house that already has copper flashing. On an exposed elevation either one works if it is the right gauge, properly hung, and kept away from dissimilar metals.

Do I need gutter guards in Edgewater?

Start with the trees and debris around your actual roofline, the gutter condition and the way water enters the gutter. Guards can reduce debris entering the channel, but they do not make the system maintenance-free. Debris can collect on top, so follow the installed product’s inspection and cleaning instructions and arrange maintenance when buildup or poor drainage appears. There is no single cleaning interval that fits every house. On an exposed elevation, the guard also needs suitable fastening for the location.

Where should my downspouts drain on a hillside lot?

Somewhere downhill where the water can soak away or drain safely, not against your foundation and not at the house below. That usually means piping them underground to a safe point downslope, tying into an existing drain line that still works, or carrying them well clear of the house on the surface. We plan the downspouts with the gutters and put the plan on the estimate.

Can you repair my gutters rather than replace them?

Often. A pulled hanger, a leaking corner or end cap, a run that has lost its pitch, or a disconnected downspout is a repair. Sectional gutters leaking at many joints, galvanized steel rusting through, or gutters too small for the roof are a replacement. Rotted fascia behind them is replaced first either way.

Do you install gutters on townhouses and condominium buildings?

Townhouse gutters and leaders, yes. On the larger River Road buildings most roof water leaves through internal drains and scuppers, which belong to the roof rather than the gutters, and we handle those as flat-roof work.

Free written estimate

Gutters that stay on and drain somewhere safe.

Sized, hung and routed for your lot, with the downspout plan written on the estimate.

Or call — an active leak should not wait on email.
Call (201) 446-5941 Free estimate